Information supplied by George Robartes, Lilburne’s Dragoons

Orders of the day, Volume 31, Issue 5, Sep/Oct 1999

Wool & Woollen Cloaths and Stuffs

Hang 2 Pails-full of fair water over the fire and put in 2 handfuls of starch or fine flower, boil it a quarter of an hour, then put a pail of cold water into a little clean Tub and mix them together till the former becomes cold - this done put in a little Dagarick and a little broken or dissolved leaven and let it stand in order to grow sour.

To two Pailfulls of water take two Hatfuls of Wheaten Bran, boil them together for a quarter of an hour, then pour it into a clean tub, where pour on a pail of water and throw in a Handful of Leven.

For every Pound of Stuff, hang Rain or running water over the fire adding one third part of the Starch or Bran water; put in 2 oz of Allom, one ounce of Tartar, when it boils and froths, first skim it, then put in the Stuff, stir it very well about for an Hour, then take it out and rince it. The quantity of Allom must always be double to that of Tartar.

For every piece of stuff weighing 8 pound, take 1/4 of a pound of Linseed, boil it half an hour, then percolate it through a cloth, and let it stand till it is turned almost to a gelly, then take an ounce and half of Gum, dissolve it twenty four hours then mix the liquors and put the cloth into this glutinous mixture, take it out, dry it in the shade and press it; if doing this once be found not sufficient repeat the operation.

Take 3 lb of Allom, two Pound and half of white Tartar, a quarter of a pound of Fenugreek, two quarts of Wheat bran, boil all in the copper, then put in the stuff and let it boil 2 hours and half, after which take it out, cool it very well and hang it out for one Night; then to dye it, take 7 pound of Madder, an ounce and a half of Aqua Fortis, a Pint of Wheat Bran, put them into the copper, stir them very well about, and when the stuff have been very well rinced in the dye, then wind it very swift upon a Roller and tumble it about the Copper for an Hour at least, taking care that the Fire keep it boiling hot; after which take it out and rince it.

First take three Pound of Allom, two pound of Tartar, half a pint of Wheat Bran, in proportion to twenty three English yards of cloath, then put more water into the Copper, and add 6 Pound of good Madder and a glass full of Vinegar, let the Dye be hot and then put in the Cloath, stirring it about till it hath sufficiently imbibed the Red Colour, then rince it out, and you will find it of a beautiful red, always pre-supposing that the Cloath hath been first boiled three hours in Allom and Tartar.

Take 3 pound of Allom, one pound and half of Tartar, boil the stuff in it an hour and half, then pour off the Water and put fresh water into the kettle, make a liquor of ten pounds of Madder, four oz of Potashes, and some urine, and boil it off when it hath dissolved one night.

Take 3 pound of Allom, two pound of white wine tartar, 31/2 oz of Ceruse (White Lead), a pint of Wheaten Bran, and boil the Cloth in this liquor an Hour and a 1/2, and leave it to soak a whole Night in the suds, and after it is rinced out, take for every piece of cloth, six pound of good madder, two ounzes of Orlean, an ounce and half of Turmerick, two ounces of aqua satis, let the cloth remain three quarters of an Hour upon the roller, and you will have a good English red, then rince it out.

Take thin plates of leaves of Copper and Grapes, first pressed in the wine press and dispose them alternately in layers one upon the other (putting between each layer a very fine Linen cloth, to prevent their mixing), pour upon it one part vinegar, and 3 parts Boys Urine, to which some add a little Allom and Nitre, moisten regular with fresh urine till the copper is thoroughly corroded and turned into Verdigrease.

For every Pound of Ware take 3 oz pulverized verdigrease, three pints and a half of Wine Vinegar, half a pint of beer Vinegar, stir the verdigrease in it, pass a pair of stockings through the Liquor, then hang them out without rincing, let them dry out then wet them in the Liquor again, also dry them as before so oft till they are perfectly cleared from all sort of humidity.

For every pound of Silk, take 3oz of Verdigrease beaten small, put it into good wine or sharp vinegar, let it dissolve a whole night therein, set it over the fire and make it hot, stirring it about with a stick, and then put in the Silk (taking care it do not boil) and let it remain there, two, one or half an hour, according as your intended Dye is to be a deep, middling or light green, then put some boiling hot water into a Fat or Tub, to which add half an ounce or an ounce of soap, and make a lather, when it froths tis then ready, then hang the Silks in it, let them drop afterwards, then Rince them in River water, beat them very well and dry them.

What sort of Water is best to dye with: Clear bright River water, preferably soft.