Author: Geraldine Murgatroyd, Newcastle’s Tertio Staff

Orders of the day, Volume 31, Issue 4, 1999

I have tried to find out some information regarding the use of leather jerkins or doublets in the 17th century, not necessarily for military use, as I believe that some soldiers did not wear a uniform issue of clothing for the whole of the Civil War period. I know that this in itself is a debatable issue, but then most aspects of history are due to lack of documentation, the questionable nature of existing documentation (why was it written, by whom and what is yet to found and made public). Similarly today’s interpretation of sources reflects today’s knowledge and beliefs - just look at 1970s SK photos for what we thought was accurate then! My findings are based on secondary sources as primary sources on items of clothing are usually hidden in household accounts, etc. and this is intended as a brief overview of current knowledge, not as a thesis on the topic.

That is my bit in mitigation before the flack starts to fly and my comments are shot down in flames!

It would appear from the costume historians who I am about to quote that leather jerkins and doublets were worn in both the 16th and 17th centuries by a variety of people ranging from the military and noblemen following fashion to coachmen and woodcutters. The terms ‘jerkin’, ‘doublet’ and ‘buffcoat’ are used for virtually the same garment by different authors at different times of writing, e.g. Norah Waugh’s Cut of Men’s Clothes 1600-1900 (London, Faber & Faber 1964 pp 25 & 26) gives patterns for two doublets made of buff leather which look like buffcoats to me.

• “The leather jerkin, a military garment adapted for civilian use, was also known as a buff jerkin, as it was made of buff, an ox-hide dressed with oil. This type of jerkin, a relatively inexpensive garment, went out of fashion in the mid 1570s, but remained in general use during the seventeenth century” - Jane Ashelford: Dress in the Age of Elizabeth (London, Batsford, 1988 p 47).

• “The jerkin as a civilian garment was discarded after 1630. Worn over the doublet it was sleeveless, or made with wings, or with wings and hanging sleeves. The leather jerkin popular from 1620-1665 was made of ox hide, dressed with oil” - Phillis Cunnington: Costume in Pictures (London, Herbert Press 1981 p52).

• “In the 1530s slashed leather jerkins or doublets (with or without sleeves) became a popular and practical fashion, and they were worn universally until the following century” - Penelope Byrde: The Male Image - Men’s Fashion in England 1300-1970. (London, Batsford, 1979 p63) She also comments on the effect of the wars in 1630-1640 on male fashion: “ buff leather jackets and kneeboots were commonly worn” (p68).

• Janet Arnold in Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 gives examples of leather jerkins for those who want details of cut and decoration. In an article “A Study of Three Jerkins” in Costume no. 5, p36-43, further details are given, and an end note by J L Nevinson provides a quote on the use of leather doublets by coachmen, comparing them to a ton-up motorcyclist (a dated term, but it shows that costume historians have a sense of fun).

• The quote from Henry Peacham in 1636 refers to “a doublet of Black-leather, Brasse-buttoned downe the brest, backe, sleeves and winges” (p43).

• Stuart Peachey and Alan Turton in Common Soldiers Clothing of the Civil Wars Vol 1 Infantry (Bristol, Stuart Press, 1995) give details of civilian clothing which may have been worn by soldiers. They quote a reference to Charles II in 1651 wearing an “old sweaty doeskin doublet” while escaping dressed as a woodsman. Leather breeches were also worn by working men; Henry Best gave his swineherd “2 skinnes for breeches” (p36).

• Phillis Cunnington & Catherine Lucas in Occupational Costume in England from the 11th Century to 1914 (London. Adam & Charles Black,1967) describe the clothing of workers on the land, p22. In Tudor times labourers wore doublets of canvas, fustian or leather and a jerkin of cloth or, like a soldier’s, of buff (oiled ox-hide). In the 17th century the “fitting jerkin disappeared gradually” among workers (p27).

This information cannot answer the ‘buffcoat or no buffcoat’ debate, or even ‘when is a buffcoat not a buffcoat?’, but aims rather to provide evidence on the prevalence of leather jerkins/doublets in 17th century life. They were both a fashion item and practical work wear, giving protection from the weather and sharp objects such as wood, as leather has done for centuries. I do not suggest that every man joining a 17th century army would possess such a garment, but if they did I am sure they would have used it. Army issue clothing was not always available to all regiments and it was frequently of poor quality which fell to bits. In the 20th century soldiers still adapt their uniforms with items of their own if existing equipment is not up to the job (British boots in the Falklands).

Discussion and debate on authentic clothing will continue to be an ongoing part of SK life as new historical evidence is produced. It is all part of the education process which is one of the Society’s aims, so I would be glad to hear of any articles or books that I have not included in this brief item.